Monday, May 13, 2013

Alexandrite and Diamond Anniversary Ring - Creation Story

Following are the photos from a custom ring I made for a 45th wedding anniversary. I have attached the email I received from a client wanting to create a very special ring - and photos of the process.

The alexandrite was from her pendant - some additional stones were provided and I selected new diamonds to match.
"Amy,
The main stone is synthetic alexandrite that was given by my Dad when he proposed to her. At that time, my Dad thought it was a natural stone. He got it from local jewelry store in Vietnam about 45 years ago. Anyway, she made a necklace with this stone and she's been wearing about 40 years. She gave this to me about 3 years ago when I had my first daughter. But I know that how much she treasured this stone. So, I just want to make a very special ring for her with this stone for her 45th anniversary.

Sketch of Anniversary Ring to be Created
Sketch of Anniversary Ring to be Created
Sorry for the long email but, I really want this ring to turn out a very special and fine ring. Also, I want this ring to look like a art deco and delicate(don't want to look either thick nor bulky). Any comments or advice will be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!!" P .Kim, April, 2013
Wax of Custom Anniversary Ring

18K White Gold Raw Cast

Alexandrite and Diamond Anniversary Ring
Final 45th Anniversary Ring - Custom Alexandrite and Diamonds 18K White Gold Ring
"Amy, I got the ring this morning and was blown away by how well this ring was made and how beautiful this ring is. I really appreciate all your work and effort. "



Monday, March 11, 2013

Jewelry Creation Story - 3 Stone Diamond Ring


I was contacted by a successful businesswoman who lives in Maryland. She had lost all hope of ever having a substantial diamond ring for her very tiny size 4 finger. I had recently designed a necklace for a colleague of hers and in her words I was her "last hope". 
Simply put, she wanted a large three stone diamond ring - the center about 1.5 cts and the two side diamonds to be a "big as possible without looking like side stones". 
Mary had gone to several jewelers who advertised that they would customize rings but all had said what she wanted "couldn't be done". Well, I LOVE a challenge!
However, truth-be-told, this project wasn't really the challenge Mary had presented to me. We had to change the model to fit her finger, which is what custom jewelry making is all about.
The Process (Illustrated in Photo Collage Below):  
Typically when making a custom ring I chose the diamonds first, then make the setting - in this case, I first made the setting to ensure that the size stones we wanted would fit. The first CAD image was approved and I had the ring cast in a base metal to send to Mary and test the sizing. While it fit her size four finger, the curve of the stones was more than she wanted - so I adjusted the design to raise the side stones and "flatten out" the top of the ring a bit - not only was this a more comfortable option, but the look of the ring became much more dramatic!
The next step was to select the diamonds to meet her quality and price specifications. Once the diamonds were selected I adjusted the prongs and depth of the setting to accommodate the stones. 
We next cast her ring in two parts - the trellis/gallery was cast in 18K yellow gold and the base of the ring in platinum. 
Process of The Creation of Three Stone Diamond Ring
The pieces were soldered together; the diamonds set and Mary got her new ring delivered a few days later.
“Amy is fantastic at blending her own expertise and her client's wishes to deliver beyond expectations. She has great listening skills but is not afraid to give advice as well--just what an expert should be.”  From LinkedIn -  qualities: Great Results, Expert, Creative
- Mary S, Chevy Chase, MD

Monday, February 25, 2013

Jewelry Creation Story - Marquise Diamond Ring

I was contacted on January 26th to recreate a marquise diamond scroll ring and create a matching ring without a stone - the rings were needed by 8 weeks later, by April 1st. We started right away and 24 days later designed and produced the two rings as ordered - below is our "Creation Story". Thanks for reading!

From the Client:

Marquise Diamond Scroll Ring - Wants a matching band
"Originally my plan was to have this style of ring customized with a different pattern (double reverse meander with 1 turn which forms a series of 'S's forwards and backwards representing the intials of our first names - Satchel & Stuart) which my fiancee and I had discussed. To my surprise when she saw this pattern, she abandoned the idea of the other pattern, feeling it doesn't compliment the style as much as the pattern shown here. So...I like to discuss making a matching set of rings - one for her with the marquise diamond, and one for me without the diamond. The rings would be needed by the 1st of April." Stu, Long Beach, California - January 26th, 2013

Diamond Selection Process via E-mail




Step #1 - Start to search for a marquise diamond that would fit the style, shape and size of the ring - size 8 - as well as the given budget. After comparing about half-dozen stones, three were identified and the choice was between two. 

Comments from client - 

"Good morning Amy! Thanks for sending the photos. After viewing the diamond photos, reading about the 4Cs on your website (very informative), and even viewing the GIA report I agree with your recommendation about Option #2 - GIA-2151148987. I am certain this stone will look beautiful on the ring, and my bride will be very delighted. Thank you so much for all your guidance" - Stu - February 1, 2013

CAD images of Custom Scroll Rings
Step #2 - Create a matching Scroll Ring - decided that the back should not taper. Sent client CAD image for approval on February 5, 2113. 

"Hi Amy -Very nice, makes a really stunning set of rings.  The rings are just how I pictured it.  Thanks!" - Stu

Step #3 Raw Cast of 14K White Gold Scroll Rings
Step #3 we decided to go straight to 14K White gold Cast - 

On February 15th got the go-ahead to size, polish, clean and set the diamond


Step #4 - We polished, sized and set the chosen diamond - all done - 24 days after start of project.



Wedding Set 14K White Gold Scroll Rings - one with Marquise Diamond
From my client:

Amy the rings are simply beautiful, much more than imagined - I'm really at a loss for words right now!. Their presentation during the wedding ceremony in April will certainly capture the heart of my lady, and will be treasured during our lifetime, and by those to whom we'll pass these along. Thank you so much for these creations!! Stu - February 21, 2012



14K White Gold Scroll Ring






Saturday, January 5, 2013

Buying diamonds on the Internet?

Attention Internet Shoppers!

Recently I worked with a client buying a 1.5ct engagement ring. While we were looking at stones he told me he had seen a diamond ring on Costco's website that seemed similar to what he wanted.

For the record - I am a huge fan of Costco. The Kirkland brand is exceptional. So we logged on to see what was what and I'm glad we did. Yes, Costco and Blue Nile sell GIA Certified Diamonds. But as I tell my kids, "Don't judge a book by it's cover" and, "Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should".

Listen, I get it. The on-line industry and many local retailers sell certified diamonds and want to you think that all diamonds of a certain grade are the same. Well they’re not. Just like us, each diamond has it’s own DNA and no two are exactly alike. Think of identical twins – at first glance you can’t tell them apart. But the more you look – the more you get to know them- you can easily see different characteristics that at times make them seem completely different. 

To a trained eye the same goes for diamonds. Each diamond “rough” is unique. And depending upon the stonecutter, two diamonds from the same rough can be cut to look completely different – even when cut to the same shape.

Why is that?

Think Giorgio Armani vs The Gap.  They could be using the same fabric yet the end product will look totally different because the tailor's skill level and process is not comparable -which is why you pay more for designer clothing

My clients know that I love to talk about diamonds. Not just the glitz and glitter but the unique elements that make each diamond such a gift from nature.



H SI1 Excellent Cut diamond on left
vs
G SI 1 Excellent Cut diamond on Right
which would you choose?
So you may be thinking... "Amy, are you saying not to buy diamonds on the internet?" No, I'm not. And as a disclaimer I should add that I sell diamonds via my website all the time.

While Costco and Blue Nile are reputable retailers and will sell you what they say, as a small business owner I personally work with my clients and only sell diamonds that I have hand-picked myself to suit their budget and style. 

If you've ever seen a poorly cut diamond you will know what I'm talking about and how important Cut is to the finished product- not just in the beauty of the stone - but to the value of it as well. Additionally, when one compares diamonds from a "list" on the internet, while on paper the specifications are the same, in person they may look quite different. This is due to the fact that even though a diamond has an "excellent" rating, the rating is a "range" and the stones in person will look different. 

To make this point - Both stones in the photo here are rated as GIA Excellent. But I bet you would choose the H SI1 diamond in the photo above over the G SI 1 stone if you were not told the specifications - and would have a prettier ring.

Three Stone Diamond Ring using G SI 1 Diamonds with
Certified Excellent Cut Diamonds

As a jewelry professional and diamond lover I truly believe it is important to fall in love with a stone. Much like how you need to actually read a book to form an opinion, when spending thousands of dollars buying a diamond I recommend personally comparing several stones or hire a professional who will.

Monday, November 26, 2012

Beyond Bling - The Jewelry from Anna Karenina, The Movie

Lights, Camera, Action!
The minute Keira Knightly put on her diamond wedding rings as Anna, in her new movie, Anna Karenina, I knew I was in for a treat! For the next 2 hours and 10 minutes I was taken into a world of imagination, decadence, drama and oh yes, BLING!

If you love fine jewelry this movie is a must see. The only thing more beautiful than the cast, which features  Keira Knightley and Jude Law, is the magnificent jewelry worn and created for the film.

Each piece is beyond beautiful. As I watched I was trying to figure out if the jewelry was true period  or new creations. If new, my thoughts immediately went to Harry Winston, Graff,  Mikimoto, or my personal favorite Mastoloni Pearls. Later, as I searched the internet for answers, I was pleasantly surprised to learn in an interview by The Fashion Spot with costume designer Jacqueline Durran
that Chanel provided the jewelry for Ms. Knightly. Taken from the official movie site, the following photos showcase the magnificent gems worn by Ms. Knightley.

Enjoy - and to fully see the sparkle, I highly recommend seeing the movie :)
Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina wearing Diamond Earrings and rings

Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina wearing a Chanel Diamond Necklace


Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina wearing pearl and diamond earrings and necklace

Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina wearing multiple pearl strand necklace with diamond and pearl earrings

Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina wearing multiple pearl strand necklace with diamond and pearl earrings


Keira Knightley as Anna Karenina wearing diamond cluster earrings

Sunday, August 12, 2012

Rustic Diamond Ring - A Creation Story




from sketch to reality

The Story behind the Rustic Diamond Ring:

I was asked to create an engagement ring for a client in Colorado - 

The request:
" I would like a rustic low profile diamond ring with a hammered finish with highly polished finish. She does NOT want to large stone that sticks up high as we are very active outdoors people. unique is best, but it still needs to have "bling." Steve S.

Being that my client was in Colorado and I am in New York, we exchanged and talked about lots of photos from my website as well as a few pre-made setting I had available from a casting house I work with in New York City. While creating a new ring is an amazing experience, I am a huge fan of not recreating the wheel -  especially when there is a tight budget, so I always suggest a few ready-made settings. 
Original Stock Setting from Adwar Castings

One of my casting houses, Adwar Castings, had a setting with four main stones and the upper band was full of diamonds. My client liked the setting but wanted something more rustic and less "blingy" to give to his girlfriend for when he proposes, so we redesigned the setting and recast it with less diamonds and when finished, hand hammered the bands. 

The Process from start to finish:

Using a sketching technique, I modified the pre-cast setting and from the sketch had a raw cast of the ring created. Once Steve approved the photo I had a raw cast made to our specifications and then picked the diamonds...

Sketch of Proposed New Ring
Raw Cast of ring based on sketch
Raw Cast with New Diamonds



Finished Ring with modifications for Client
by The Perfect Setting



Finished Ring on Hand
www.theperfectsetting.com

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Are You a Directioner?

Are you Dedicated to something
Do you Follow your Heart
Have you taken control of your life or overcome an obstacle
Have you set goals for yourself that you are in the process of achieving
Are you happy with your decisions 
Is your life moving in a positive direction?

If you answered yes to any of the above questions then you are most definitely a Directioner!


100% Sterling Silver Directioner Necklace
Made in the USA
How I became a Directioner:
I was asked to create a necklace that represented the passion of being dedicated to something and a funny thing happened during the design process of getting input from dozens of young ladies ...I started thinking about my own path - my own direction and passions that I have either followed in my youth or more recently in my adult life. So in the end I created a necklace that is not limited to a teen moment, but rather, in line with my motto of "jewelry should be worn and not collect dust in a box", I created a quality necklace that can be worn at any age and will always be a reminder of keeping your life moving in a positive direction :)

Here's my list as to why I am a Directioner... what's yours?

I am a Directioner because…

Me wearing my Sterling Silver  Directioner Necklace
I am dedicated
I follow my heart
I have overcome many obstacles
I have taken control of my life
I set goals for myself that I am in the process of achieving
I strive to live drama-free
I am happy with the direction of my life and where my decisions are taking me...


.... on a red leather cord
This necklace and any other jewelry I create with the word "directioner" is only available for sale via The Perfect Setting, on my website store. Third parties are not authorized to sell or resell this necklace without my permission. The necklace was created for individual enjoyment to express passion and individualism and is not affiliated with any other organizations.