Amy Certilman, Jewelry 411

Jewelry Gift Receiving Tips for Women

2012-02-06T18:07:00.000-08:00

Last week I wrote a blog of gift giving tips for men - letting them know that for a woman, there is nothing worse than getting a gift of jewelry and thinking "Really, am I really going to have to wear this?"

I have worked with countless women who do not like the jewelry they've been given but they don't want to discourage their man from buying them nice things.

Like much in life, communication is key. And, contrary to romance novels where the dashing man always knows exactly what his beautiful wife wants, you may need to speak up a bit and get more involved in the process if you want to get jewelry you will love to wear.

If you want your honey to give you jewelry you will be in love with, follow these tips to insure you will always get the jewelry of your dreams!

TIPS for how to be involved in picking out your jewelery:

If you want something specific, speak up about it.

Don’t be afraid to do more than drop a hint; send email photos of a piece you want along with the jewelers contact or website information so the item can be purchased.

If you like to be surprised or you’re not sure about the budget, pick out three or four items and say “you choose and surprise me”

Consider changing a piece of jewelry you already have and resetting an existing stone.

Remember, you only have ten fingers, one neck and two earlobes, which is why...

I always recommend quality over quantity for special occasion jewelry; so if the piece you want is more expensive than the budget, delete the notion that you “need” a new piece of jewelry for each and every occasion. Instead, start a wish list file and be willing to wait a bit longer to save for something you really love.

A Message for Men on Jewelry Gift Giving - To Surprise or Not Surprise?

2012-01-28T05:33:00.000-08:00

Jewelry Gift-Giving Tips for Men- To Surprise or Not Surprise?

A large part of my business is re-setting stones from jewelry men had given to their girlfriends/wives AKA The Big Surprise.

Whether you are eight or eighty, there is nothing worse than a disappointing gift – especially an expensive one like fine jewelry. So, how to avoid this? Like everything else with relationships – communication is key.

Many of my clients own jewelry that was a gift from a loved one but they never really enjoyed wearing it. I often hear while conducting jewelry box evaluations that women love jewelry and don't want to discourage men from giving them beautiful gifts. But nothing is worse than receiving a costly piece of jewelry from a boyfriend, fiancé, or husband, and thinking "Am I really going to have to wear this?"

Contrary to the "Hallmark Moment" of surprise, isn't the point of a gift to give something the recipient will love? What a waste for a beautiful piece of jewelry to sit in a box under the guise of "I'll wear it on special occasions" or "I love it but I don't want to lose it". Trust me, regardless of shape and size; if your honey loves her bling she's going to wear it - as often as possible!

Truth-be-told, if given the opportunity, most women would prefer to select their own jewelry, and as an active participant in picking out my own jewels, I can assure you - there are ways you can pick something special together and still get the big OMG and hug plus-plus when the little box gets opened :)

So, if you are not prepared to eliminate the surprise all together, here are a few tips to consider the next time you want to buy your special lady a piece of fine jewelry.

TIP #1

Meet with a jeweler that you trust and select a few things within your budget. Gift-wrap an empty jewelry box containing pictures of each piece. Tell her she can fill this box with any one of the items.

TIP #2

Meet with a jeweler along with you wife/girlfriend and ask her to select several things at various price-points. When you’re ready, surprise her with one of the items. Hopefully over time you will buy them all!

Understanding the 4C's of Diamond Grading

2011-09-29T10:55:00.000-07:00

When a professional appraiser is grading a diamond a chart is used to analyze each stone. Factors such as weight and cut are quantitative and measured while other characteristics, such as color and clarity, are graded by comparison, and, well, let's just say expertise and “feel”.

Many consumers don't have access to a diamond buyer and need to rely on certificates for their diamonds when comparing one to another. Unfortunately, certified diamonds cost more, and, to complicate matters for consumers, there are several different rating agencies, each having very different industry standards.

Therefore, when buying diamonds, it is important that you know who graded the diamond and what standard they used - even though two stones might be exactly the same on paper - when seen in person they may look totally different.

Below I have outlined the guidelines used by the GIA (The Gemological Institute of America), which is where I received my training. I chose GIA as I found their standards to be the most rigorous in the industry. When price shopping and purchasing diamonds I am of course partial to their practices and when buying a non-certified diamond (one without an official GIA Certificate), I use the same criteria a diamond grader from the GIA would use.

I recommend that you try to find a jeweler who uses the GIA standard when buying diamonds without a certificate. You will save a lot of money buying a non-certified stone while still getting the same quality of goods. As you will read below, even when you buy a diamond with a certificate, it is still a diamond that was graded by an individual with a subjective range of standards.

The 4 C’s

Color

One of the first things they teach in diamond school is that when judging the color of a diamond you must – I repeat must – use a master set. In other words, while an appraiser can estimate the color of a stone on a white piece of paper, the only way to truly judge a stone’s color is to compare it to another stone that has already been graded.

Photo from of GIA website

Why? Because the color grade of a diamond is not absolute, it is a range. A grader takes a diamond and first “guesses” by looking at it face up and face down in a small white paper dish. Once a “guesstimate” is made, the stone is taken to a master set that has a sample diamond representing colorless “D” through light yellow “M”. The grader has to decide which color most closely matches the master set. So while two diamonds might be assigned a “G” or near colorless, one stone might be closer to “F” or what I call a “G+” while the other is closer to “H” what I call a “G-“… yet both would be graded a “G” by the GIA method.

Clarity

The clarity of a stone is also subjective. When discussing clarity we are talking about the inclusions also known as visible “flaws” in a diamond. Most diamonds I buy for clients that are under two carats are in the VS (Very Slight) or SI (Slightly Included) range. So what is the difference? Well for both stones it would be very difficult to see an inclusion with the naked eye. The GIA standard is to grade a diamond using a microscope with no more than 10x magnification.

Photo from GIA website

A diamond grader looking at a stone that is SI means that it is slightly include and a trained eye can find the inclusions quickly. My instructor at the GIA gave us four simple buzzwords to help us categorize inclusions for clarity grading. Minute inclusions would grade a stone VVS (very very slightly). Minor inclusions VS (very slightly). Noticeable inclusions SI (slightly included), and finally, when inclusions are obvious the stone is graded in the I range for included.

And there’s more. For each category, as a grader, we must decide if the stone is VVS1 or VVS2 – in other words very very slightly included or a bit more very very slightly included.

Cut This is a more definite calculation and is probably the most undervalued “C” by consumers, yet for dealers and buyers, next to color, the most important for saleability of a stone. The cut of a diamond gives it its scintillation or its “sparkle”. A diamond with an EX or excellent cut will have more sparkle than a diamond with VG or very good. Diamonds rated G for good and F for fair are what is used in most retail, online and commercial goods.

Photo from GIA website

Before I took my diamond lab class at the GIA, like many consumers, when comparing diamonds I looked at two of the 4c's - color and clarity.

And then I looped and compared hundreds of diamonds. And a funny thing happened. I had just graded a G VVS diamond with a "good" rating for the "make" or finished cut of the stone. Then, just after, I graded a G SI2 diamond with an "excellent" rating for the "make" or finished cut of the stone.

While the clarity - or amount of visible inclusions under a loop was far better in the first stone/VVS - the scintillation or "sparkle" or the second/SI was far better - and would definitely be the stone I would prefer to own and wear.

And guess what? There is a huge difference in price - a G VS being far more expensive.

Carat
Simply put this is the weight of a diamond. Usually it will be abbreviated on a sales ticket. TW or CTW when adding the weight of all the diamonds in a setting.

List of Common Diamond Rating Agencies:

Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
American Gemological Society (AGS)
European Gemological Laboratory (EGL)
International Gemological Institute (IGI)

Thank you for reading my blog, and as always, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Holy Moly Bat Girl -- The Bridal Industry Has Changed!

2011-09-22T17:48:00.000-07:00

When I got married, way-back-when, we had a few bridal magazines and the yellow pages. Today there are a plethora of resources for new brides to choose from - not only to find a local photographer, jeweler, or venue, but also to connect with other brides-to-be that are looking for the same answers to the same questions and still not too burnt out to talk about it.

In the era of Facebook and Blogs, and everything in-between, I think it is just fantastic that women and men can connect and share their ideas, thoughts and recommendations for venders, resources and all things weddings. Come to think of it, how about a site dedicated to celebrating anniversary's? I know I would love to share some ideas beyond going out for dinner :)

So.... maybe you're like me and have been married for a while, or you have a son or daughter coming of age.... or mostly, if you are thinking of "tying-the-knot", or better yet are engaged already, well here is a list of some great sites and resources to help you plan for your special day - and everything leading up to it!

p.s.
If you have a great site to share that is not listed here please send me a note and I'll add the name and link to the list. And of course, if you or someone you know needs some advice on buying wedding jewelry, well let's just say you know where to find me :)

Divorce Jewelry - Shifting Karma

2011-07-08T08:43:00.000-07:00

As a jewelry "re-designer", working with a client that is ready to redo wedding jewelry from a divorce requires a positive and forward looking perspective. Before the project beings, I have found it beneficial to spend time helping my client shift their consciousness to find and rediscover the good karma that once existed in the stones.

Whether amicable or not, a divorce signifies the end of something that started with love and optimism. What remains are memories, and of course unworn wedding and anniversary jewelry. My job is to assess the "baggage" and help my client visualize and get excited about what their new jewelry will look like.

Possible setting options

Stones out of setting

Many times, after the stone is removed from the original setting, I encourage my clients to think about the day they were given the stones - not the ring. I have found it is beneficial to focus on the joy and excitement from when they first got the jewelry - and keep the focus on the stones.

Once the positive energy is recaptured, and a new life for the stone is visualized, the fun begins in finding the right look that fits her current lifestyle and budget.

The response I get when delivering "new" jewelry to a divorcee is very rewarding as I am delivering jewelry a client never thought she would want to wear again... jewelry she took part in creating... jewelry that suits her new life... jewelry that is a gift she has given to herself. Most importantly, jewelry that she will wear and love - once again.

A few examples of re-designed and reset wedding jewelry that I've done for clients

Unworn wedding band and ring become new diamond pendant

Unworn three stone ring becomes new "right-hand" ring and earrings

Unworn wedding band becomes new diamond earrings

Unworn wedding jewelry is transformed into three new pieces

The Story Behind the Stones #3 - Loose green tourmaline

2011-05-31T06:46:00.000-07:00

I was contacted to help create a new piece of jewelry for a vivid green tourmaline that my client's husband had given to his mother years ago. While discussing a few options, the concept of adding diamonds came up, and within minutes, a photo of an unworn heart that had belonged to my client's late mother was sent to my desk-top via email... "Can we use any of these?" YOU BET!

Loose green tourmaline

Unworn diamond heart pendant

Over the next few weeks the stones were removed, a design was chosen, and her new pendant - with my signature enhancer - is now worn in many different ways....

Stones selected and ready to be set

New tourmaline and diamond enhancer on pearls

New tourmaline and diamond enhancer on gold chain

The Story Behind the Stones #2 - Wedding Jewelry

2011-05-28T11:36:00.000-07:00

I recently had the opportunity to work with a successful business executive who was ready to restyle and reset her wedding jewelry. Divorced now for several years, we discussed her desire to treat herself to new jewelry that would be substantial in look and versatile in function.

All complete, from three pieces of unworn jewelry we created seven new pieces for her to wear and love!

Jewelry BEFORE - Three pieces

# 1 BEFORE - three stone engagement ring

# 2 BEFORE - diamond wedding band

# 3 - BEFORE - sapphire and diamond tennis bracelet

Jewelry AFTER - seven pieces

#1 - 18K yellow gold "right hand ring"

#2 - Custom designed sapphire and topaz earrings 14K yellow gold (topaz purchased)

#3 - Bezel set sapphires in 14K yellow gold

#4 - Diamond "dangle" hoops in 14K yellow gold

#5 - Diamond circle necklace set in 14K white gold

#6 - Bezel set single diamond in 14K white gold

#7 - 36" Blue and white sapphire necklace 14K yellow gold (white sapphires purchased)

Combined Before & After Photos

The Story Behind the Stones #1

2011-05-23T09:31:00.000-07:00

BEFORE - 1950's diamond cocktail ring

It seems everyone loves a good story! I am frequently told by clients and viewers of my website and facebook page that as much as they love seeing the jewelry, they love reading the "stories behind the stones" --- so this week I've decided to tell the story with the stones -- I was contacted by a family to help them sort out their inherited jewelry - among the many pieces we sorted was this 1950's diamond cocktail ring. No one thinks it has seen the light of day for twenty years! My client is one of three boys and the ring had belonged to his mother with special instructions for his wife to do what she wanted with it.

AFTER - Removable diamond pendant with necklace

At first, all she knew was that she wanted to reset the diamonds and make something new. Once clean the stones were dazzling and after removing them and measuring --- I presented several ideas to my clients -- one of which was similar to a necklace I had done last year utilizing a large center stone in a circle pendant. There were plenty of perfectly matched diamonds to make that and a new diamonds-by-the-yard type necklace. The only stones missing were for the enhancer - so I purchased ones to match. Needless to say, this very special pendant now hangs on a very special daughter-in-law, whose face shines almost as much as the diamonds:)

AFTER - Removable diamond pendant and necklace

AFTER - Removable pendant shown on black cord

2011-05-05T14:35:00.000-07:00

Platinum vs. Gold

Have you ever wondered why most wedding jewelry is set in platinum and everything else in gold?

Natural Platinum vs Natural White Gold

With gold and platinum prices reaching record levels, knowing which metal to use, and when, is a decision that is just as much about budget as it is about durability.

The present cost difference between white gold ($1516) and platinum ($1819) is significant in that gram for gram you will pay 20% more for platinum AND since platinum is naturally a heavier, more dense mental, it weighs more. Hence, the same ring cast in platinum will be about 30% heavier, resulting in over a 100% difference in price.

So why is most wedding jewelry in platinum?

In its natural state, platinum is very white, dense and strong. It will provide a more secure setting for your stones; it will not need to be “dipped in rhodium” for a white look, and it will feel heavier and more luxurious.

Does that mean you always have to use platinum with diamonds? Of course not.

Most of us have a budget and some simply want yellow gold.

So when is it OK to use gold?

Gold is fine anytime a stone is set on its own. For eternity bands, if you are set on gold, I recommend the “Four-Prong” setting, which means that each stone is set on its own with four prongs, or the “Bezel-Set”, which, like the four-prong, each stone is individually set but the metal is wrapped around the stone, and is a far more secure choice when gold is being used.

For a "Shared-Prong" setting I highly recommend budgeting for platinum, as all too often, stones sharing a prong in gold become loose and fall out. If my client is set on a “shared-prong” eternity band I’ll still do it for them in gold, but I make sure that they understand their ring will require more maintenance and there is a higher likely hood that they will have to replace a stone from time-to-time. Not because the stones weren’t set properly, but rather because the metal itself is softer and less secure.

Why I love enhancers!

2011-04-16T12:42:00.000-07:00

When it comes to pendants and necklaces, nothing offers more versatility than an enhancer. If you have a pendant that you don't wear often because it only fits on one chain - consider adding a hinged enhancer - you will wear your other necklaces and pearls more often as well as your special pendant :)

Top 10 things to do when buying fine diamond jewelry

2011-04-15T08:50:00.000-07:00

1. Find a jeweler you like and trust

2. Make sure you can exchange the item within a certain amount of days without a “restocking” fee.

3. Get a written guarantee as to the quality and specifications of the stones (the 4 C’s -carat, cut, clarity, color -)

4. Get in writing that if the stones don’t check out by an accredited appraiser you get a 100% refund

5. Get the jewelry appraised by an accredited company– GIA (Gemological Institute of America), The Jewelry Judge (about $100 per carat)

6. When comparing price, you must compare the 4c’s of diamond value (carat, cut, clarity, color)

7. Unless for investment and/or resale purposes, you don’t need to pay for flawless diamonds.

8. If you are price shopping, find what looks good to you first and then ask what the quality of the stones are for comparison – none of your friends will ask you whether your ring is VS or SI1

9. You will get what you pay for

10. Remember my favorite quote – “if you bought a ring for $10 you got a ring worth $10”