Understanding the 4C's of Diamond Grading

When a professional appraiser is grading a diamond a chart is used to analyze each stone. Factors such as weight and cut are quantitative and measured while other characteristics, such as color and clarity, are graded by comparison, and, well, let's just say expertise and “feel”.

Many consumers don't have access to a diamond buyer and need to rely on certificates for their diamonds when comparing one to another. Certified diamonds cost more, and, to complicate matters for consumers, there are several different rating agencies, each having very different industry standards.

Therefore, when buying diamonds, it is important that you know who graded the diamond and what standard  they used - even though two stones might be exactly the same on paper - when seen in person they may look totally different.

Below I have outlined the guidelines used by the GIA (The Gemological Institute of America), which is where I received my training. I chose GIA as I found their standards to be the most rigorous in the industry. When price shopping and purchasing diamonds I am of course partial to their practices and when buying a non-certified diamond (one without an official GIA Certificate), I use the same criteria a diamond grader from the GIA would use.

I recommend that you try to find a jeweler who uses the GIA standard when buying diamonds with or without a certificate. There are times when I buy or sell a non-certified diamond, and if selling a non-GIA stone I clearly explain the characteristics and differences in terminology. I recommend if buying a non-GIA certified diamond you clearly understand the difference, as you will read below,  even when you buy a diamond with a certificate, it is still a diamond that was graded by an individual with a subjective range of standards.

The 4 C’s

Color

One of the first things they teach in diamond school is that when judging the color of a diamond you must – I repeat must – use a master set. In other words, while an appraiser can estimate the color of a stone on a white piece of paper, the only way to truly judge a stone’s color is to compare it to another stone that has already been graded.

Photo from of GIA website

Why? Because the color grade of a diamond is not absolute, it is a range. A grader takes a diamond and first “guesses” by looking at it face up and face down in a small white paper dish.  Once a “guesstimate” is made, the stone is taken to a master set that has a sample diamond representing colorless “D” through light yellow “M”. The grader has to decide which color most closely matches the master set. So while two diamonds might be assigned a “G” or near colorless, one stone might be closer to “F” or what I call a “G+” while the other is closer to “H” what I call a “G-“… yet both would be graded a “G” by the GIA method.

  

Clarity

The clarity of a stone is also subjective. When discussing clarity we are talking about the inclusions also known as visible “flaws” in a diamond.  Most diamonds I buy for clients are in the VS (Very Slight) or SI (Slightly Included) range. So what is the difference? Well for both stones it would be very difficult to see an inclusion with the naked eye. The GIA standard is to grade a diamond using a microscope with no more than 10x magnification. 

Photo from GIA website

A diamond grader looking at a stone that is SI means that it is slightly include and a trained eye can find the inclusions quickly. My instructor at the GIA gave us four simple buzzwords to help us categorize inclusions for clarity grading. Minute inclusions would grade a stone VVS (very very slightly). Minor inclusions VS (very slightly). Noticeable inclusions SI (slightly included), and finally, when inclusions are obvious the stone is graded in the I range for included.

And there’s more. For each category, as a grader, we must decide if the stone is VVS1 or VVS2 – in other words very very slightly included or a bit more very very slightly included.

Cut This is a more definite calculation and is probably the most undervalued “C” by consumers, yet for dealers and buyers, next to color, the most important for sale-ability of a stone. The cut of a diamond gives it its scintillation or its “sparkle”.  A diamond with an EX or excellent cut will have more sparkle than a diamond with VG or very good. Diamonds rated G for good and F for fair are what is used in most retail, online and commercial goods. Most fine jewelry uses EX or VG cut diamonds.

Photo from GIA website

Before I took my diamond lab class at the GIA, like many consumers, when comparing diamonds I looked at two of the 4c's - color and clarity. 

And then I looped and compared hundreds of diamonds.  And a funny thing happened. I had just graded a G VVS diamond with a "good" rating for the "make" or finished cut of the stone. Then, just after, I graded a G SI2 diamond with an "excellent" rating for the "make" or finished cut of the stone.

While the clarity - or amount of visible inclusions under a loop was far better in the first stone/VVS - the scintillation or "sparkle" or the second/SI was far better - and would definitely be the stone I would prefer to own and wear.

And guess what? There is a huge difference in price - a G VS being far more expensive.

Carat
Simply put this is the weight of a diamond. Usually it will be abbreviated on a sales ticket. TW or CTW when adding the weight of all the diamonds in a setting.

List of Common Diamond Rating Agencies:

• Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
• American Gemological Society (AGS)
• European Gemological Laboratory (EGL)
• International Gemological Institute (IGI)

Thank you for reading my blog, and as always, feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Holy Moly Bat Girl -- The Bridal Industry Has Changed!

When I got married, way-back-when, we had a few bridal magazines and the yellow pages. Today there are a plethora of resources for new brides to choose from - not only to find a local photographer, jeweler, or venue, but also to connect with other brides-to-be that are looking for the same answers to the same questions and still not too burnt out to talk about it.

In the era of Facebook and Blogs, and everything in-between, I think it is just fantastic that women and men can connect and share their ideas, thoughts and recommendations for venders, resources and all things weddings. Come to think of it, how about a site dedicated to celebrating anniversary's? I know I would love to share some ideas beyond going out for dinner :)

So.... maybe you're like me and have been married for a while, or you have a son or daughter coming of age.... or mostly, if you are thinking of "tying-the-knot", or better yet are engaged already, well here is a list of some great sites and resources to help you plan for your special day - and everything leading up to it!

• Wedding Wire
• Martha Stewart Weddings
• Best City Wedding
• BridalBuds
• WeddingAces
• Bride.com
• Green Bride Guide 
• The Knot 

p.s.
If you have a great site to share that is not listed here please send me a note and I'll add the name and link to the list. And of course, if you or someone you know needs some advice on buying wedding jewelry, well let's just say you know where to find me :)

Divorce Jewelry - Shifting Karma

As a jewelry "re-designer", working with a client that is ready to redo wedding jewelry from a divorce requires a positive and forward looking perspective.  Before the project beings, I have found it beneficial to spend time helping my client shift their consciousness to find and rediscover the good karma that once existed in the stones.

Whether amicable or not, a divorce signifies the end of something that started with love and optimism. What remains are memories, and of course unworn wedding and anniversary jewelry. My job is to assess the "baggage" and help my client visualize and get excited about what their new jewelry will look like.

Possible setting options for unworn wedding jewelry

Stones out of old wedding band setting

Many times, after the stone is removed from the original setting, I encourage my clients to think about the day they were given the stones - not the ring.  I have found it is beneficial to focus on the joy and excitement from when they first got the jewelry - and keep the focus on the stones.

Once the positive energy is recaptured, and a new life for the stone is visualized, the fun begins in finding the right look that fits her current lifestyle and budget.

The response I get when delivering "new" jewelry to a divorcee is very rewarding as I am delivering jewelry a client never thought she would want to wear again... jewelry she took part in creating... jewelry that suits her new life... jewelry that is a gift she has given to herself. Most importantly, jewelry that she will wear and love - once again.

A few examples of re-designed and reset wedding jewelry and the response from my clients:

Unworn wedding band and ring become new diamond pendant

"After my divorce my diamond engagement ring and wedding band were just sitting in my jewelry box. I didn't want to sell them because a) sentimental value and b) thought my boys might want the stones one day for their brides. Amy created the most beautiful piece of jewelry out of both rings: a pendant that can be clipped on to any necklace. I have worn it on a leather and making it look casual as well as on a diamond chain and pearl necklace for black tie events. Strangers have approached me wanting to know where I bought it! I love wearing it not only because its a stunning piece but because I can keep my ex whom I still care for close to my heart!"                 - Linda K., Bedford, NY

Unworn wedding band becomes new diamond earrings

"Making a "clean sweep" through my husbands gifted jewelry when my 14 year marriage ended was truly a cathartic, uplifting process. The saying "out with the old and in with the new" applied to so many aspects of my new life. Transforming my beautiful jewelry into completely different, powerful and sexy statements was truly a gift of priceless value to me! Thank you so much, Amy, for restoring more than just my ring! You restored my heart and spirit, too!"           - Carol L. Fairfield, CT

Unworn wedding jewelry is transformed into three new pieces

Unworn three stone ring becomes new "right-hand" ring and earrings

"Amy did an amazing job transforming my rings into beautiful contemporary jewelry that reflects my style and taste. She has an incredible ability to creatively make suggestions that can work on each of your pieces and more importantly, she picks designs that fit your needs and lifestyles. I love all my new necklaces and earring and can not wait to find more pieces for her to work on!

- Elyse L. Port Washington, NY

"After being divorced and having my jewelry sit in my jewelry box for three years, Amy found and created new settings for my diamonds that I was planning to sell. She brought new life to my jewelry .... for my new life! Now I love it and wear it all the time - Thank you Amy!               - Betsy B. New Canaan, CT

The Story Behind the Stones #3 - Loose green tourmaline

I was contacted to help create a new piece of jewelry for a vivid green tourmaline that my client's husband had given to his mother years ago. While discussing a few options, the concept of adding diamonds came up, and within minutes, a photo of an unworn heart that had belonged to my client's late mother was sent to my desk-top via email... "Can we use any of these?" YOU BET!

Loose green tourmaline

Unworn diamond heart pendant

Over the next few weeks the stones were removed, a design was chosen, and her new pendant - with my signature enhancer - is now worn in many different ways.... 

Stones selected and ready to be set

New tourmaline and diamond enhancer on pearls

New tourmaline and diamond enhancer on gold chain

The Story Behind the Stones #2 - Wedding Jewelry

I recently had the opportunity to work with a successful business executive who was ready to restyle and reset her wedding jewelry. Divorced now for several years, we discussed her desire to treat herself to new jewelry that would be substantial in look and versatile in function.

All complete, from three pieces of unworn jewelry we created seven new pieces for her to wear and love!

Jewelry BEFORE - Three pieces

  # 1 BEFORE - three stone engagement ring

# 2 BEFORE - diamond wedding band

# 3 - BEFORE - sapphire and diamond tennis bracelet

Jewelry AFTER - seven pieces

#1 - 18K yellow gold "right hand ring"

#2 - Custom designed sapphire and topaz earrings 14K yellow gold (topaz purchased)

#3 -  Bezel set sapphires in 14K yellow gold

#4 - Diamond "dangle" hoops in 14K yellow gold

#5 - Diamond circle necklace set in 14K white gold

#6 - Bezel set single diamond in 14K white gold

#7 - 36" Blue and white sapphire necklace 14K yellow gold (white sapphires purchased)

Combined Before & After Photos 

The Story Behind the Stones #1

BEFORE - 1950's diamond cocktail ring

It seems everyone loves a good story! I am frequently told by clients and viewers of my website and facebook page that as much as they love seeing the jewelry, they love reading the "stories behind the stones" --- so this week I've decided to tell the story with the stones -- I was contacted by a family to help them sort out their inherited jewelry - among the many pieces we sorted was this 1950's diamond cocktail ring. No one thinks it has seen the light of day for twenty years! My client is one of three boys and the ring had belonged to his mother with special instructions for his wife to do what she wanted with it. 

AFTER - Removable diamond pendant with necklace

At first, all she knew was that she wanted to reset the diamonds and make something new. Once clean the stones were dazzling and after removing them and measuring --- I presented several ideas to my clients -- one of which was similar to a necklace I had done last year utilizing a large center stone in a circle pendant. There were plenty of perfectly matched diamonds to make that and a new diamonds-by-the-yard type necklace. The only stones missing were for the enhancer - so I purchased ones to match. Needless to say, this very special pendant now hangs on a very special daughter-in-law, whose face shines almost as much as the diamonds:)

AFTER - Removable diamond pendant and necklace

AFTER - Removable pendant shown on black cord

Platinum vs Gold

Platinum vs. Gold

Have you ever wondered why most wedding jewelry is set in platinum and everything else in gold?

Natural Platinum  vs Natural White Gold

With gold and platinum prices reaching record levels, knowing which metal to use, and when, is a decision that is just as much about budget as it is about durability and feel.

The present cost difference between white gold ($1516) and platinum ($1819) is significant in that gram for gram you will pay 20% more for platinum AND since platinum is naturally a heavier, more dense mental, it weighs more. Hence, the same ring cast in platinum will be about 30% heavier, resulting in a very steep price difference (as of 5/11).

So why is most wedding jewelry in platinum?

In its natural state, platinum is very dense and white and will not need to be “dipped in rhodium” for a white look. Due to it's weight many say it feels heavier and more luxurious. Platinum has a certain "feel" about it that gold does not. Also, because white gold has a slight grey look most gold jewelry is dipped in a material called rhodium which is a very durable plating. Rhodium plating has similar properties to platinum and make your jewelry look white and bright. Over time it does need to get re-dipped with wear but this process is readily available and not expensive. Also, after it's done your ring looks "like new" again.

So if it's less expensive, can be dipped in rhodium, why not always use gold?

The decision to spend the extra on platinum is a personal one beyond a budget. As consumers we make these decisions on many items we buy and wear all the time. Take sneakers for example. There are basketball sneakers for $35, $75, and I have even seen them as high as $150. Will the more expensive pair make you play better? Technically not - but they might wear better. Even so, if one pair is more comfortable or has more cushion to it you might actually play better or at least have a more enjoyable time doing so. And that's not to say that for one person the $35 pair isn't a better fit.

Buying jewelry is the same thing - we look at budget and fit.  Even if there are not budgetary concerns it is the weight of the ring that will decide the metal we use - and when I say weight, it's as much about the feel as anything else.

For a typical engagement ring that is worn every day for years and years, if the budget can absorb the cost of platinum there is nothing like it - which is why so many brides choose platinum. The differential in the weight lets the wearer know the ring is on her finger and the ring is essentially maintenance free. There are exceptions - of course - and since each situation is different  that is why working with an experienced jeweler to review you options is always best.

The good news is that there is really not a "wrong" choice. Just like choosing the style of the ring is a personal decision - the materials the ring is made of can and should be a personal decision as well.

Why I love enhancers!

When it comes to pendants and necklaces, nothing offers more versatility than an enhancer. If you have a pendant that you don't wear often because it only fits on one chain - consider adding a hinged enhancer - you will wear your other necklaces and pearls more often as well as your special pendant :)

Top 10 things to do when buying fine diamond jewelry

1.     Find a jeweler you like and trust

2.     Get a written guarantee as to the quality and specifications of the stones (the 4 C’s  -carat, cut, clarity, color -)

3.     Get in writing that if the stones don’t check out by an accredited appraiser you get a 100% refund

4.     Get the jewelry evaluated by an accredited company– GIA (Gemological Institute of America), The Jewelry Judge (about $100 per carat)

5.     When comparing price, you must compare the 4c’s of diamond value (carat, cut, clarity, color)

6.     Unless for investment and/or resale purposes, you don’t need to pay for flawless diamonds.

7.     If you are price shopping, find what looks good to you first and then ask what the quality of the stones are for comparison – none of your friends will ask you whether your ring is VS or SI1

8.     You will get what you pay for

9. Remember my favorite quote – “if you bought a ring for $10 you got a ring worth $10”
10. Have fun.